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Much about surfing is being in the right place at the right time. No one can guess exactly what the ocean will do, but surfers do their best to predict the swells, then position themselves accordingly to give themselves the best shot at success.
If you drive down the Baja coast chasing waves, past Tijuana, then Rosarito, you'll eventually end up at Calafia. Here you'll find a nice little break that is often mediocre, but sometimes amazing.
Follow your gut often enough and you'll get better at trusting your instincts. Picking up the signs that lead to a higher likelihood of success.
The "cojones" we speak of on this hat aren't found from blind, simple intrepidity. They're earned from calculated, deliberate action taken in the face of uncertainty.
Paddle out enough and you'll get it. Don't, and you won't.
